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Arunachal Pradesh, once known as the ‘Hidden Land’, is the only state in India which has been completely closed to all outsiders since the beginning of time. In 1998 we were very proud to have run the first British trek to the region since the days when the intrepid British officers and political agents tried to explore the region in the days of the Raj.
The ancient land finds mention in early Indian literature such as the Kalika Purana, the Mahabharata and the Ramayana. It was here that Parasuram is said to have washed away his sins, Vyasa meditated, Bhismaka founded his kingdom, Lord Krishna married his consort, Rukmini, and King Balinarayana drew men for his armies from among the hardy people of Arunachal Pradesh. The 6th Dalai Lama was born on the soil of Arunachal Pradesh and the present 13th Dalai Lama found refuge and safety here.
Location :
Arunachal Pradesh is situated on the north-eastern tip of India, bordering Bhutan on the west, Tibet/China on the north, Burma (Myanmar) on the east and the Indian state of Assam to the south. It covers 84,000 sq. km, its climate varying from sub-tropical to alpine. Some 80% of the state is covered by natural forest, with numerous turbulent streams, roaring rivers, deep gorges, lofty Himalayan Mountains and hundreds of species of flora and fauna.
Terrain :
A picturesque and hilly terrain, Arunachal Pradesh is criss-crossed by innumerable rivers and rivulets. The heights of the mountain peaks range from 11,000 ft (1,829 m) to 21,000 ft (6,400 m), with the highest peak at 23,255 ft (7,090m) in Tawang District. There are five major rivers – Kameng, Subansiri, Siang, Lohit and Tirap which drain into the Brahmaputra river.
Vegetation :
There is a great variety of vegetation, ranging from climbers to an abundance of cane, bamboo and orchids. Arunachal Pradesh is known for a rich occurrence of orchids at varying latitudinal zones – from the foothills to the snow-clad peaks. There are about 450 species of orchids reported from this state and many more may yet be discovered.
Climate :
The climate during the summer is hot and humid at the lower altitudes and in the valleys covered by dense tropical forests, particularly in the far eastern section, while it becomes exceedingly cold at higher altitudes. The rainfall is amongst the heaviest in India, with the annual average being more than 300cm! Therefore, as can be expected, the vegetation varies greatly in relation to the elevation, ranging from a wide belt of tropical rain forest along the foothills and the low-lying areas, to tropical and sub-tropical at higher altitudes.
People :
Although a number of tribal groups constitute the total population, the density of the population is only 8 per sq. km. There are as many as 25 tribal groups that form the population in the state.
All the individual tribes have a rich cultural heritage and have been unspoiled due to the remoteness of this area, which has been closed until now. During the 200 years of British rule in India the British Government itself closed the borders to its own kind in 1873. Arunachal Pradesh is one of the few states in British India, which Christian missionaries were not allowed to enter, unlike Nagaland and Mizoram.
The society of Arunachal is patriarchal and primogeniture and the fundamental laws of inheritance, with variations, are not uncommon. They follow endogamy and strictly observe clan exogamy. Polygamy was socially sanctioned and practiced by most of them. The people are highly democratic and each tribe has its own organized institutions that maintain law and order, decide disputes and take up all activities of the welfare of the village.
Head-hunting has long since ceased in the state (unlike Nagaland) and the Arunachalis are generally known to be a peace-loving people. However, one famous tribe in particular (the Wanchos of the south eastern Tirapdistrict of Arunachal Pradesh, who saw action against the British in the mid 19th century), used to infiltrate and attack the ferocious Konyak tribes of north-eastern Nagaland until quite recently. The Konyak tribes of north-east Nagaland still occasionally head-hunt today. Throughout the trip, one comes into contact with different tribes, such as the Nishi in Itanagar and Ziro, the Apa Tani and Hill Miri in Ziro, the Idu Mishmis in Along, the Adis or the famous Ahoms in Pasighat and the Mishmis and Singphos in the Namdapha area, which also has a small influence of Tangsas.
Religion :
The religion of the bulk of the population consists of belief in the existence of a High God or Supernatural Being and a host of other spirits and deities. The High God is called differently by different groups of people. Many however, believe in the dual existence of the High God, one in the sky and the other on earth. While the High God is always believed to be benevolent, the spirits and deities are grouped under two classes – benevolent and malevolent. The traditional religion of the people can be more conveniently understood as a cultural system since it is one of the aspects of the cultural tradition which makes the people live their life with unquestionable belief and with a sense of absolute dedication to the Supernatural Being controlling their destiny.
Places of Interest :
Itanagar is the capital of Arunachal Pradesh. Places of interest include the Buddhist monastery, Jawaharlal Nehru Memorial Museum (closed on Mondays) and the Craft Centre at Naharlagun.
Along is the headquarters of upper Siang district, situated on the south bank of the Siyom river.
Boleng, situated on the south bank of the Siyom river, is one of the most colorful, unusual and remote areas of the world, inhabitated by the famous Adi (Mingyong) tribes.
Daporijo, lies some 165 km, from Ziro. The journey over a serpentine road offers spectacular panoramic views of the countryside and an insight into the lifestyles of the Tagin, Hill Miri and Adi tribes. Of particular interest are Sikoarijo, a Nishi village and Don village, home of the Tagins, where traditional medicine is practiced to this day.
Likabali is the entrepot to West Siang District. Close by is the ancient archaeological site at Malinithan, where the ruins of a big temple dating back to the 14th – 15th century AD have been excavated. The ruins include sculptures of India, Airavata, Surya and the Nandi Bull.
Pasighat is a unique settlement at the exit of the gorge from which the Siang river flows. The Siang ia an extension of the Tsangpo river with its origins at Manasrover in Tibet and one of the five major tributaries which form the mighty Brahmaputra river.
Ziro is the headquarters of the lower Subansiri district, situated in the heart of the Apa Tani Valley, at an altitude of 5,156 ft (1,572m). It was a Wrld War Two Air base for US and British Forces flying the ‘Hump’ into China (the famous Flying Tigers). It also provided air support for the battle of Kohima and the retake of Burma from the invading Japanese Forces in 1994.
HILL TRIBE TREKS :
Accommodation will be in comfortable A-frame tents suitable for the forest environment. A dining and kitchen tent as well as a suitable number of toilet tents are also provided. Camps will usually be set up on the fringe of a village with the occasional option of being able to sleep around the fire hearth inside one of the village long-houses.
SUGGESTED PROGRAM :
Day 1 – Depart Kolkata on the British Airways overnight flight. Depending on availability we will fly direct to Kolkata or to Delhi and then transfer to the domestic airport for an internal flight to Kolkata.
Day 2 – Arrive Kolkata, either direct or via Delhi.
Met on arrival and transfer to the hotel Oberoi Grand for your overnight stay. The Oberoi Grand Hotel is an impressive white building, exquisitely-resorted, with an outdoor swimming pool, tea lounge and some of the best restaurants in town. (In the event of schedule changes we may be flying to Delhi on one of the direct non-stop carriers from London and transferring to an immediate internal connection to Kolkata.)
Day 3 – Half-day Sightseeing of KOLKATA
Afternoon at leisure. This morning we take a sight-seeing tour of the vibrant capital of West Bengal.
Kolkata ; The city was founded by the remarkable English merchant trader, Job Charnock, in 1690. In the 17th century there was a group of three villages along the river, Hugli Kalikata, Govindapur and Sutanuti, where communities of weavers lived. The site was particularly holy to Hindus. According to one myth, King Daksa was enraged when his daughter, Kali, married Siva. He organized a Yajna (grand sacrifice) to which he invited everyone in the kingdom – except his son-in-law. Kali was distraught to hear that her husband had been so insulted by her father and threw herself on the sacrifical flames. Siva in turn arrived on the scene to find his wife’s body already burnt. Tearing it from the flames, he started his dance of cosmic destruction. All the other gods, witnessing the devastation that Siva was causing in his anguish, pleaded with Vishnu to step in and end the chaos. Vishnu intercepted him with his flailing Chakra (a discus-like weapon) and, in order to dislodge Kali’s body from Siva’s shoulder, chopped it into fifty one pieces, which were flung far. The place where each one fell became a place of pilgrimage. The toe of Kali’s right foot fell at Kali Ghat. Thus, Kalikshetra or Kalikata gave the city its name. In 1772 it became the capital of British administration in India with Warren Hastings as the first Govenor of Bengal. Some of modern Kolkata’s most impressive colonial buildings date from the years that followed. This afternoon is free to relax or continue with sight-seeing and souvenir hunting. Overnight at the Oberoi Grand Hotel.
Day 4 – FLY TO TEZPUR, DRIVE TO ITANAGAR
Today we fly to Tezpur. The town stands on the north bank of the Brahmaputra, is the site of Assam’s first tea plantations and retains a colonial atmosphere. C.A. Bruce who pioneered the tea industry, is buried in the church there. We then make the five-hour drive to Itanagar, capital of Arunachal Pradesh. Overnight at Hotel Arun Subansiri.
Day 5 – SIGHTSEEING IN ITANAGAR, DRIVE TO ZIRO
We spend the morning sightseeing in Itanagar, visiting the Buddhist monastery, Jawaharlal Nehru Memorial Museum, the Zoo and the Craft Centre at Naharlagun. In the afternoon we leave for the seven-hour drive to Ziro, the headquarters of the Lower Subansiri district. Situated in the heart of the Apa Tani Valley, at a fringed by lofty mountains. The drive is through lush forested hillsides and past tribal settlements of the Nishi and Hill Miri. Usually set amidst green surroundings, Nishi settlements consist of widely dispersed long huts made of twilled mats, thatched roofs and flooringof flattened bamboo and are identified by the profusion of pigs and fowls scrabbling on heaps of rubbish everywhere. A short distance away lie the granaries. The Hill Miri villages are much smaller, with an average village consisting of 8 to 9 houses built on hill slopes. Varying from 60 to 70 feet in length, the longhouse can shelter up to 40 persons. While in Ziro visit the museum, which houses an interesting collection of traditional clothing and items of daily use. Overnight in a rest house or camp.
Day 6 – ZIRO / DAPORIJO / LIKABALI
After an early breakfast, we depart on the long but rewarding drive to Daporijo, which lies 165 km from Ziro. The journey over a serpentine road offers spectacular panoramic views of the countryside and an insight into the lifestyles of the Tagin, Hill Miri and Adi tribes. Of particular interest are the Sikoarijo Nishi village and Don village, home of the Tagins, where traditional medicine is practiced to this day.
Time and conditions permitting, we continue on to Likabali, the entrepot to West Siang District. Alternatively, we will halt in or near the small town of Along. Overnight at a Government Resthouse, Inspection Bungalow or in camp.
Day 7 – DRIVE TO PASIGHAT
After breakfast, we spend the morning exploring the ancient archaeological site at Malinithan, where the ruins of a big temple dating back to the 14th – 15th century AD have been excavated. The ruins include sculptures of Indra, Airavata, Surya and the Nandi Bull. We then continue on to Pasighat, a unique settlement at the exit of the gorge from which the Siang river flows. The Siang is an extension of the Tsangpo river with its origins at Mansarover in Tibet and one of the five major tributaries which form the mighty Brahmaputra river. Overnight in a Circuit House or Inspection Bungalow.
Day 8 – TREK TO SISSAN
Today we drive 1.5 hrs out to Pasighat along the true right bank of the Siang River to the 23 kms marker. From here we descend through the riverside jungle for ¾ hr down to a primitive cane bridge spanning the Siang River. We cross the bridge and trek approximately 4 hrs to the village of Sissan. To our knowledge, no foreigners have visited any of the villages between Ponging and Komsing since India got independence in 1947. The trail will be quite tough going, but the beautiful forest and river setting more than makes up for it. Overnight camp will be made next to the village. Dinner around the campfire or inside one of the tribal houses.
Day 9 – TREK TO PANGI
We are up early today to trek for 6-7 hrs through jungle and cultivated areas through to the village of Pangi inhabitated by the Minyong Adi tribe.
Day 10 – TREK TO KARU
Today we make a fairly arduous trek through jungle with reasonable steep ascents and descents to the village of Karu. Camp next to the village. Dinner around the campfire.
Day 11 – TREK TO KOMSING
We break camp today and trek for 2 to 3 hrs to the village of Komsing. The last recorded visit to Komsing is that of a political agent of the British Raj, called Noel Williamson, and a doctor companion, who were carrying the message of the death of King Edward VII to the tribal chiefs.
To quote from diary records: “Noel Williamson was the Assistant Political Officer of Sardia who toured the Siang Valley in 1909 up to Kebang. He had a friendly approach and gained the confidence of the people. Greatly encouraged by this gesture of goodwill, he decided to visit Komsing from where an invitation was extended to hi. A plan was made, and even though the Government at first was reluctant, he subsequently approved the limited tour (beyond the inner line) up to Komsing on the left bank of the Siang River.
“Accompanied by dr Griegerson, Medical officer of European and Native Staff of tea gardens in Upper Assam, a company of 47 porters and armed escort, Williamson left Pasighat on 20 March 11911. At ferry point of Komlighat a friendly courier of one of the headmen of Kebang village Takut tried to dissuade him, as there was a conspiracy to stall the move. But Williamson brushed him aside and crossed the river and arrived at Sissan village. At Sissan a number of porters fell sick forcing Dr Griegerson to stay back while Williamson marched ahead to Komsing.
“On 29th March accompanied by an interpreter three sick porters left for Rotung en route to Pasighat. The Interpreter was carrying three official envelopes for delivery to post at Pasighat. He flourished these envelopes to the curious villagers in a show of great importance. The envelopes were bordered with black stripes as a mark of mourning for the death of King Edward VII of British Empire. But the foolish interpreter boastfully explained that white indicates two sahibs, the black border line countless sepoys and the red seal was of great anger. He further told the frightened villagers that his move to Pasighat was to deliver the letters to call the army to level the hills by bombardment.
“Greatly alarmed, the leaders decided to stop the delivery of the letters. Fast runners moved to Kebang, the leading village, and relayed the ominous message. Next morning when the Interpreter and his companions moved out in great self assurance they were waylaid and brutally murdered. The people then mobilized for an offensive attack. Stockades were built up, needle-sharp panjies laid on the route of march, stone chutes with immense piles of boulders concealed on the path, strung arrows held in tension of string to fly at all directions, patrols moved out to watch towers, an elaborate signal system operated, food packets cached for emergency.
“On 31st March, a patrol of sturdy youths secretly crossed the river to the other bank and descended on Sissan to surprise the small party. Dr Griegerson, along with the escort and porters fell to the attack. Only three could escape death by jumping into the river. At Komsing village Williamson was received with traditional hospitality. Assured of friendship and peace, all were in a relaxed mood. The second patrol from kebang already took up position. It was midday when Williamson went for a bath in the enclosure when all of a sudden a heavy sword blow fell on him and he died soon after. Simultaneously followers and others including the sentries were taken completely unaware and fell to the attack.”
“It was a tragedy of the worst magnitude. The escaped sepoys managed to reach Pasighat to convey the news of the disaster. An immediate alarm was raised. Soon after a massive operation was planned under the command of Major General H Bower, the Officer Commanding of Assam Brigade. The Brigade comprised the crack units of Gurkhas, sappers and miners, medical team, cartographers, naturalists and scores of army officers. The extensive preparation for the punitive expedition continued till mid-October. Troops were brought from far away Kolkata by river steamers and ferried across to Koboghat by dozens of country crafts.”
The party then moved up river and took punitive action against a number of the villages. The action was half-hearted and the party withdrew early, many soldiers suffering from illness. Since that time virtually no Europeans have been allowed into the area.
Day 12 – TREK TO YEMBUNG, RAFT TO PASIGHAT
After breaking camp, we walk for 2 to 3 hrs through the jungle to the Siang and raft down-river as far as daylight and an easy take-out point permits. Then we drive to Pasighat. Camp overnight.
PASIGHAT ; headquarters of East Siang district, is situated on the right bank of the Siang – as the Brahmaputra is called in Arunachal. It serves as an ideal base from which to visit the surrounding Adi villages, river rafting and angling on the Siang. The government emporium offers a selection of traditional tribal handicrafts and artifacts. For the spring departure we spend the day attending the Aran festival. Festivals form an essential aspect of the socio-cultural life of the people of Arunachal Pradesh. Since agriculture is the mainstay of the population, the festivals celebrated by the people are closely connected with their occupation, thanking the god’s providence and prayers for bumper crops. Most festivals have common rituals such as sacrificing of animals, particularly the “Mithun”, in the non-bodic tribes. These rituals are generally performed by priests, assisted by some select male members of the community. Overnight at rest house.
Day 13 – STEAMER RIDE TO DIBRUGHAR, DRIVE TO KAZIRANGA NATIONAL PARK
Today we depart very early morning for an unforgettable steamer-boat ride down the upper reaches of the Brahmaputra to Dibrughar. Transport awaits you here for the five hour drive to Kaziranga. Overnight at Wild Grass Resort.
Day 14 – GAME VIEWING AT KAZIRANGA
The early morning and late afternoon game viewing by jeeps or elephants will be an undoubted highlight of your trek. Kaziranga National Park lies in the flood-plain of the Brahmaputra sloping, very gradually, from east to west. The Karbi Anglong Hill ranges rise around the Park pressing it against the great flood of the Brahmaputra flowing as its northern boundary. The many rivulets flowing down the ranges bring down rich silt and sand, silting up small lakes, known as ‘bheels’, to make swamps and marshes. The alluvial grasslands rise to savannah woodlands and then, as the lands lose their moistness with height, the land changes to mixed decidous forsts and, finally, totropical evergreen forests. The main attraction of Kaziranga, the great Indian one-horned rhinoceros for whose protection the Park was established in 1908, is very easy to see. Rhinos graze like domestic cattle in the grasslands and marshes around the Park and can be spotted belly-deep in the marsh, chomping contentedly on succulent grasses. The other wildlife encountered here include wild elephants, tiger, wild buffalo, gaur, swamp deer, sambar, hog, deer, wild boar and a large number of interesting birds. All meals and overnight at Wild Grass Resort.
Day 15 – DRIVE TO SHILLONG
After breakfast we leave on the five-hour scenic drive, through hills covered with pineapple and betal plantations and pine forests to Shillong (5,000ft/1,500m), the favoured hill station of the British Raj. On arrival we check in at Hotel Pinewood Ashok for the overnight stay.
Day 16 – AT LEISURE IN SHILLONG
We spend the day exploring Shillong, the capital of Meghalaya – “the abode of clouds”, which got statehood only in 1972 and was previously a part of Assam. A hilly region inhabited by three tribal groups, this temperature land was popular with the British. The town spreads on hills covered with English-style country houses, the largest being Raj Bhavan, the summer residence of the governor of Assam and Meghalaya. There are many interesting places to visit – the placid Ward’s Lake, The museum of History and Ethnography and St. Paul’s Cathedral, one of the region’s oldest places of Christian worship. Overnight at HotelPinewood Ashok.
Day 17 – DRIVE TO GUWAHATI, FLY TO DELHI
Today we make an early morning departure for the four-hour drive to Guwahati to catch the internal flight to Delhi. We transfer to the Qutab Hotel where we can relax before the late evening transfer to the airport.
Day 18 – FLY OVERSEAS.
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